CUSTOM TAILORING

THE LOOK

If The Suit Fits

“We can talk about pattern and colour until we’re midnight blue in the face, but a sharp suit starts with an exceptional fit. Holt Renfrew Men’s made-to-measure expert Gianpaolo Mazzotta cracks out his tailor’s chalk for a crash course.”

SHOULDERS

“The most important measurement on a jacket is where it hits the shoulders. Ideally, the shoulders should end right around the rotator cuff, which gives a smooth line to the bicep. This helps frame the body properly, while shoulder pads that extend past the actual shoulder can create an undesirable boxy look.”

CHEST

“When you tug on the top button you want at least two to three inches of play. If you go much tighter, it just adds buckling. You also want shape, which means the jacket should follow the curve of your chest and you don’t want extra cloth between the chest and armhole.”

SLEEVES

“You can’t lengthen a sleeve as much as you can shorten it, so off-the-rack suits are produced with sleeves that are always longer. Guys in North America have just gotten used to it, but you should see anywhere from a quarter- to a half-inch of shirt sleeve.”

LENGTH

“Ideally, the jacket should end where the crotch ends. That means it covers the seat and allows for a more slimming silhouette.”

PANTS

“The more narrow the leg, the shorter the pant needs to be. If you go with a really narrow pant...”